Whisky Book Review: Pappyland
The thirst for more knowledge drives me to continue reading books about whisky. Realizing that you may not have as much time or interest, I want to provide quick reviews of some famous (and some niche) whisky-related books to help guide you to ones worth your time.
For my first installment, I'll review Pappyland. After grabbing it from the library, I recently finished it and found it intriguing in various ways. It's well-written, engaging, and full of neat little tidbits about the Pappy Van Winkle brand and the Van Winkle family. It follows Julian Van Winkle, the current custodian of the Pappy brand and the original Pappy's grandson.
Pros: It is well-written for the most part and provides some interesting insight into Julian Van Winkle, the Pappy brand, and the bourbon industry. Julian's afterword is fantastic.
Cons: The bourbon gems feel overshadowed by a borderline pretentious tangent into the themes of legacy and family. The author takes it upon himself to work his legacy and family into the narrative, which is frustrating for bourbon lovers looking for a nerdy adventure. The chapters seem disjointed at times.
Bottom Line: If you want to read a sometimes somber, contemplative story of legacy, family, and what we leave behind, you'll enjoy it. If you want to read a book about bourbon, there are many better options.
Pappyland emanates a potential problem from the start: this book isn't about bourbon. The theme is legacy. Family is a secondary topic. But bourbon is an afterthought. Wright Thompson, the author, is an ESPN writer, not a whisky writer. After reading some harsh reviews on Amazon, it's clear that those looking for an in-depth book about the history of Pappy Van Winkle didn't find what they were seeking. I tend to agree.
There are redeeming qualities within this book. There are even some excellent insights about the bourbon industry. However, Mr. Thompson also fills many pages with personal stories about his family and the approaching birth of his daughter. I'll be honest: I skimmed and sometimes skipped ahead in the latter third of the book when his self-musings ran long. Again, the theme is legacy. He decided to tie his legacy into the narrative, which certainly may rub some the wrong way.
Overall, this book is a mixed bag. The exciting bourbon facts exist in an eternal struggle with a borderline self-indulgent heap of stories about an ESPN writer from Mississippi. A couple of strange forays into political commentary eye-roll their way to becoming the cherry on top of this peculiar sundae. You must understand what it is and isn't before you begin. Your expectations will drive your opinion of this book.
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